Ephesus Archaeological Museum

Visiting the museum after the site rather than before makes the ruins click into place: the friezes, household objects and portrait busts here were all lifted from the buildings you have just walked through.

The two cult statues of Artemis of Ephesus are the reason most people come. They are covered in rows of ovoid forms whose meaning is still argued over — breasts, bull testicles, or gourds, depending on whose paper you read.

It is a compact museum. An hour and a half is enough, and it is air-conditioned, which makes it a sensible stop in the middle of a hot afternoon.